ENGINE · COST GUIDE

Engine Mount Replacement Cost

Engine mount replacement costs $185 to $810 at an independent repair shop, parts and labor, for most cars. Parts run $70 to $320 and labor is 1.2 to 3.5 hours at $95 to $140 an hour. Dealers usually charge more, and mobile mechanics often charge a little less.

Engine mounts are rubber or fluid filled blocks that hold the engine and transmission to the car's frame and soak up their shaking. When one tears, you feel more vibration and hear clunks when you shift or step on the gas. Most cars have three or four mounts, and prices here are for one.

Typical national range $185 to $810 parts + labor at an independent shop

Updated . How we estimate repair costs.

Engine Mount Replacement

Estimate it for your vehicle & location

$185 to $810
Typical range · parts + labor

Estimates are typical ranges for planning purposes, your exact price depends on your specific vehicle, parts choice, and local market. Get a firm quote from a mechanic near you.

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What Engine Mounts Do and What the Job Includes

Your engine and transmission weigh several hundred pounds and twist every time you step on the gas. The mounts hold that weight in place and keep the shaking out of the cabin. Most are a rubber block bonded between two metal brackets. Some are filled with fluid to absorb more. Some luxury cars use mounts that change stiffness on command.

The transmission mount is part of the same system and is often sold as one of the engine mounts.

The job is simple in concept. The tech supports the engine with a jack or a support bar across the engine bay, removes the bolts on the bad mount, lifts the engine a little, swaps the mount, and tightens the bolts with the engine sitting at rest. On easy cars this is about an hour per mount. On hard ones it can be three or more.

The tech should also check the bolts and brackets. Some brackets crack, and some bolts stretch. Reusing a damaged bracket with a new mount is a common reason the clunk comes back.

On cars with active mounts, the shop may need to plug in the wiring or vacuum line and check for codes after the job.

Why the Price Varies

Location is the biggest factor. A top mount you can see from above is quick. A lower mount under the exhaust, or one that needs the subframe lowered, is slow.

Mount type matters next. A plain rubber mount for a compact can be under $60. A fluid filled mount for a midsize V6 can be $100 to $200. An active mount for a luxury car can top $300.

Mount quality matters a lot in this category. Cheap aftermarket mounts are a common reason for a vibration that comes back soon after the repair. OEM or a known brand is worth the extra money.

Venue matters too. Dealers charge the most. Independent shops are usually the best value. A mobile mechanic can do most top and side mounts in a driveway. Lower mounts on some cars need a lift.

Your local labor rate matters too. Three hours at $95 and three hours at $160 differ by nearly $200 on the same mount. Ask whether the quote covers one mount or several, since many shops quote a set.

Should You Replace All the Mounts?

Not automatically. Mounts wear at different rates, and the one that takes the most torque usually goes first.

The honest answer depends on age. On a car with 150,000 miles, if one mount is torn, the others are likely tired. Replacing them all at once saves on repeat labor and gives the best result.

On a newer car where one mount failed early, just replace that one. Have the tech show you the others.

Ask the tech to do a power brake test. With your foot on the brake, they shift into drive and reverse and lightly press the gas while someone watches the engine. A healthy engine moves a little. A bad mount lets it jump.

Think about labor overlap too. If two mounts are reached through the same steps, doing both now costs less than two separate visits. If each mount is on a different side with its own steps, there is less to save by doing them together.

A sagging engine changes how the other mounts sit. When one mount collapses, the others take extra load and twist. That is another reason worn mounts tend to fail one after another on older cars.

What Else Feels Like a Bad Mount

Engine shake can come from many places. Rule these out before you pay for mounts.

A misfire from a bad spark plug or coil makes the engine run rough at idle. That shake feels just like a bad mount but needs a different fix.

A clunk when you shift or take off can be a CV axle, a U joint, or a worn control arm bushing.

A vibration at highway speed is usually tires, wheel balance or an axle, not mounts. Mount vibration is worst at idle in gear and when you load the engine.

A bad idle speed or a vacuum leak can also make the engine shake at stops.

A good shop scans for misfires and does the power brake test before quoting mounts.

On hybrids, a thump at engine start is often a mount, but it can also be the engine start settings. A scan and a look at the mounts sorts that out.

What Often Gets Done at the Same Time

A few items are worth a look while the engine is supported.

Questions to Ask Before You Approve the Quote

These questions help you pay for the right mount and the right fix.

How Long Mounts Last

Many mounts last 100,000 miles or more. Heat, oil leaks and hard driving shorten that. Oil dripping onto a rubber mount softens it and makes it fail early, so fix oil leaks above the mounts.

Hard launches and towing twist the mounts harder. Smooth driving helps them last.

A quality part matters most. Mounts are one place where the cheapest option often costs more in the end.

Signs you need this repair

How urgent?

A worn mount is not usually an emergency, but it gets worse and stresses other parts. A loose engine can pull on hoses, wiring, exhaust parts and axles. If the engine lurches hard on takeoff, or a mount is fully broken, get it fixed soon. A completely failed mount on some cars can let the engine shift far enough to damage other parts.

DIY difficulty

Moderate. Many top mounts are a few bolts with the engine supported on a jack and a wood block. Lower and rear mounts can need the car on a lift and parts moved out of the way. Support the engine safely and never work under an engine held only by a jack. Torque the bolts in the right order with the car's weight on the wheels.

Cost by vehicle type

VehicleTypical rangeNotes
Compact / economy car$175 to $760Front drive cars often wear out the passenger side or the rear torque mount first. Most are easy to reach and parts are cheap.
Midsize sedan / small SUV$185 to $810Many V6 sedans use fluid filled or active mounts that cost more. The rear mount may need the car on a lift.
Full-size truck / large SUV$215 to $940Trucks usually have two engine mounts and one transmission mount. The engine has to be lifted a bit to swap them, which a shop does with a jack or hoist.
Luxury / European$260 to $1,150Many use fluid filled or electronic active mounts that can cost $200 to $400 each. Some need the subframe lowered.
Hybrid$200 to $890Hybrids start and stop the engine often, which works the mounts hard. Worn mounts show up as a thump each time the engine restarts.
Electric vehicle$210 to $930Motor mounts rarely fail but can wear from instant torque. A clunk when you take off is the usual sign.
Diesel / heavy duty$255 to $1,115Diesels shake more and use heavy mounts. Expect the upper part of the range and the engine lifted to do the job.

Ranges assume national-average labor rates ($95, $140/hr) and quality aftermarket parts.

Cost by state

StateTypical range
Alabama$170 to $740Find a mechanic in Alabama →
Alaska$195 to $845Find a mechanic in Alaska →
Arizona$185 to $790Find a mechanic in Arizona →
Arkansas$165 to $720Find a mechanic in Arkansas →
California$215 to $930Find a mechanic in California →
Colorado$190 to $830Find a mechanic in Colorado →
Connecticut$195 to $845Find a mechanic in Connecticut →
Delaware$185 to $790Find a mechanic in Delaware →
Florida$185 to $810Find a mechanic in Florida →
Georgia$180 to $775Find a mechanic in Georgia →
Hawaii$200 to $880Find a mechanic in Hawaii →
Idaho$180 to $760Find a mechanic in Idaho →
Illinois$190 to $830Find a mechanic in Illinois →
Indiana$170 to $760Find a mechanic in Indiana →
Iowa$170 to $740Find a mechanic in Iowa →
Kansas$170 to $740Find a mechanic in Kansas →
Kentucky$170 to $760Find a mechanic in Kentucky →
Louisiana$180 to $775Find a mechanic in Louisiana →
Maine$180 to $775Find a mechanic in Maine →
Maryland$195 to $845Find a mechanic in Maryland →
Massachusetts$200 to $880Find a mechanic in Massachusetts →
Michigan$180 to $790Find a mechanic in Michigan →
Minnesota$185 to $810Find a mechanic in Minnesota →
Mississippi$165 to $720Find a mechanic in Mississippi →
Missouri$170 to $760Find a mechanic in Missouri →
Montana$180 to $760Find a mechanic in Montana →
Nebraska$170 to $740Find a mechanic in Nebraska →
Nevada$190 to $830Find a mechanic in Nevada →
New Hampshire$185 to $810Find a mechanic in New Hampshire →
New Jersey$200 to $860Find a mechanic in New Jersey →
New Mexico$180 to $760Find a mechanic in New Mexico →
New York$200 to $900Find a mechanic in New York →
North Carolina$180 to $775Find a mechanic in North Carolina →
North Dakota$170 to $740Find a mechanic in North Dakota →
Ohio$170 to $775Find a mechanic in Ohio →
Oklahoma$170 to $740Find a mechanic in Oklahoma →
Oregon$190 to $830Find a mechanic in Oregon →
Pennsylvania$185 to $810Find a mechanic in Pennsylvania →
Rhode Island$190 to $830Find a mechanic in Rhode Island →
South Carolina$170 to $760Find a mechanic in South Carolina →
South Dakota$170 to $740Find a mechanic in South Dakota →
Tennessee$170 to $775Find a mechanic in Tennessee →
Texas$185 to $810Find a mechanic in Texas →
Utah$185 to $790Find a mechanic in Utah →
Vermont$180 to $775Find a mechanic in Vermont →
Virginia$185 to $810Find a mechanic in Virginia →
Washington$200 to $880Find a mechanic in Washington →
Washington DC$210 to $900Find a mechanic in Washington DC →
West Virginia$165 to $720Find a mechanic in West Virginia →
Wisconsin$180 to $775Find a mechanic in Wisconsin →
Wyoming$170 to $740Find a mechanic in Wyoming →

State ranges reflect typical independent-shop labor rates for a midsize vehicle.

Common questions

How much does it cost to replace an engine mount?

Most single mounts cost about $200 to $650 at an independent shop. Fluid filled or active mounts and hard to reach mounts cost more. Replacing all mounts can run $600 to $1,500.

Can I drive with a bad engine mount?

Usually yes for a short time, but it gets worse. A failing mount stresses hoses, wiring, axles and the exhaust. A fully broken mount should be fixed soon.

How do I know if my engine mount is bad?

The usual signs are more vibration at idle in gear and a clunk when you shift. A shop can confirm it with a power brake test while watching the engine move.

Should I replace all engine mounts at once?

Only if they are all worn. On a high mileage car it often makes sense. On a newer car, replace the bad one and check the rest.

Can a bad engine mount cause a check engine light?

Not directly in most cars. A shaking engine can sometimes upset sensors or wiring. Active mounts on some luxury cars can set their own warning.

Can a mobile mechanic replace engine mounts?

Yes, for most top and side mounts. Lower or rear mounts on some cars need a lift and are better done in a shop.

Why does my car still vibrate after new engine mounts?

Either the mounts were not the real cause, or the new parts are poor quality. Check for misfires and use OEM or a known brand mount.

How much does an engine mount replacement cost at a dealer?

Dealers often charge $350 to $900 per mount, more for active mounts. The gap is mostly labor rate and OEM part price. An independent shop using an OEM or known brand mount is usually cheaper.

Related Repair Guides

More Engine Repair Costs

Sources and further reading

Primary sources behind this page. Federal safety, emissions and consumer-protection references, worth reading before you authorize any repair.

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